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June 26, 2006

Fashion borrows from Bollywood, Turks, & Geishas – Tunics, Dolman sleeves, and Kimono tops



Fashion borrows elements from nature, the streets, dance, architecture, music, youth culture, oh, everywhere, including ethnic communities. We’ve heard detail-oriented terms to describe clothing such as “safari”, “island-style”, “hip-hop”, “urban”, “French Riviera”, “Asian-inspired”, and the like.

“Asian-inspired” used to mean cheongsam appliqués on clothes such as eyelet enclosures and bright floral satins, but these days you’ll find “Asian-inspired” clothes equal kimono-style (like the pink one by VOX). Kimono-style refers to a top or dress with loose, flowing sleeves, often a wrap-around, or cinched with an obi-inspired belt, or perhaps the fabric has a kimono print with a Japanese flavour to it. A kimono top is often than not attached to a rather dismaying name such as “Ms. Arragato [sic] Floral Print Kimono Top in Fair Orchid”. Cringe…so much for an open-minded international flavour.

Dolman is another “ethnic” term borrowed by the fashion world to describe a type of sleeve. Not to be confused with the grape-leaf wrapped pupus (appies) from Greek cuisine—that would be DolmadesDolman is a loose garment with narrow sleeves of Turkish origin. A Dolman sleeve (like the top by ABS by Allen Schwartz) describes a “full sleeve that is very wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist”—think vintage ‘70s sweaters and you’ll picture it in a jiff.

Speaking of '70s-style, last summer kurtas and kurtis were all the rage, borrowed from the traditional clothing worn in northern India, Pakistan, and Afghanistan. Scratching your head? It’s probably because you’re more familiar with the anglicized name—the tunic. Ah yes, the loose shirt in flowy fabric. Although the modified version we're familiar with more resembles the kameez, the shorter version of kurtas/is which have side seams (chaak) left open below the navel to give the wearer greater freedom of movement.

More:
How to sew your own DIY (Do-It-Yourself) kimono top? Go to Deborah Merlo’s Kimono Top DIY: www.deborahmerlo.com.
Try sewing dolman sleeves: sew dolman sleeves.
Check out the other definition of Dolman…a uniform jacket with spangles: dolman jacket.
Read Lola Patel's article "Indian Tunic Makes a Comeback" @ Red Hot Curry.

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